Update from New Zealand - Direct from Janice (via email)

It is the 29^th and I am in Auckland, New Zealand where we have a 16 hour layover.  We crossed the International Date Line and lost the 28^th.  It just dawned on me that I was here on this exact day 8 years ago; my daughter, Chelbi’s birthday - Happy Birthday Darling Daughter. On this day (8 years ago), I finished my 6^th marathon in my 60^th year and completed my 7^th continent in a pair of running shoes given to me by my son. Great memories! Eight years ago it was an awesome day, today it is cold and rainy.

Here is a catch-up on what has been happening:

After a week of traveling in the South, it was time to get on the ship.  It was an adventure getting into the shipping port in Charleston, SC and driving through the maze of containers to board the Sprit of Melbourne, the ship that would be my home for the next month.  Hours were filled with watching the loading of containers, an interesting procedure.  We started with approximately 3,500 containers,

At the start of the trip, an inspector from Germany was onboard.  He went over safety procedures and did a few safety drills and exercises.  He left us in Panama and was scheduled to do more drills on other ships. He was very ship-savvy and thought we might be able to catch a WiFi signal in the Bahamas but we had no luck - either between Cuba and Haiti or between Haiti and Jamaica.  We also tried in Columbia and Panama.  We have been too far out to sea to hope for connections since.  We should get a signal when we dock in New Zealand.

I am the only female on this ship.  There are about 8 officers, 13 crew members and 2 passengers.  The crew is mostly from Myanmar.  The officers are from Bulgaria, Ukraine and Romania.   The other passenger is from Australia.  The crew works hard.  The passengers eat with the officers but there is very little interaction unless the captain is not there.  The captain is certainly not a very likeable guy.  A few of the officers eat with the crew….wonder why that is.

The interesting thing about seamen - they don’t travel as a team, nor are they assigned to any one ship. A company hires them (like a personnel company) for a 4 to 9 month assignment and the seamen are all on different phases of their commitments.  They enter and exit at different ports, so the changeover of personnel is done in stages.  They usually do not know each other from other trips or their home country.  So far no change in crew, but that will happen in Auckland, Sydney, Melbourne, and on the ship’s return to the U.S.

Interesting facts:

1.  A “Reefer” is the person in charge of the refrigerated containers.  There are many refrigerated containers on board.

2.  There really is a thing called “Doldrums”.  Areas on the sea where there is no breeze.  So people with sailboats do not go there if possible—ok may not be news to you, but to me it is.

3.  Use of ship phones is $2.00 a minute.  The crew dials it and there is never privacy when talking,

4, Our ship has 7 layers of containers under the deck and about 8 on top.  This ship holds almost 4,000 containers. It is small in the shipping industry.

5.  Ships are allowed to throw food waste overboard.  Surprised me!

6.  Maritime language is English. (It is not the native tongue of anyone on the ship except the other passenger, who is from Australia and speaks a “kinda” English.) 

Officers are too busy to spend time with the passengers except mealtime.  Some interact while others stick their noses in the food and shovel.  The food is ok.  The kitchen crew (of two) works from 6:00 AM to 8:00 PM and get a break during the day.  One has the responsibility of our rooms (sheets, towels etc. but not very often).  They cook basic food and a lot of it.  Portions are big and it is amazing to watch the men eat.  Volumes of meat are served and one plate may have 3 huge sausages, some chicken and potatoes and dessert.  There is always a fresh salad, fruit, bread, soup, juice, water and plenty of cooked veggies, coffee and tea. Desert is served on occasion.  They try hard to accommodate my meatless situation.

Only three passengers are allowed on this ship, but some ships can accommodate as many as 10.  It would be more fun if there were more passengers.  So the situation goes like this:  My room is the owner’s room.  When he is not on board, it is rented.  The other passenger is using an officer’s room.  Guess other ships have more spare rooms.

Anyway, my room is a suite:  two rooms, two beds, a big desk and chair, a couch, 2 day chairs and a TV.  The room overlooks the front of the ships and my view is containers, containers and even more containers. The ship can hold about 4,000 of them.  For the first part of the trip, there were huge tires in my view.  While in Panama, they were taken off to load more containers and to be reloaded on top again.  (The tires have to be on top as they are taller than the containers that hold them, thus eliminating the opportunity of putting another container on top).  We were running so late, the captain couldn’t (or wouldn’t) wait for them to be reloaded and left them on the tarmac.  --- I wonder how that will play out.   

For exercise there are 7 flights of stairs from the Upper Deck to the Bridge.  Each set has 14 steps and there are many opportunities to do all or some of them all day long.

I am allowed to walk the around one deck.  It is a rather dirty, greasy, obstacle course, but gives me a good workout walking and dodging the big ship stuff: ropes, anchors, painters, wet paint and ship workers (ships always need painting and maintenance during the journeys), electrical cords and general “big boat” stuff.  My path is walking around and around the ship, under containers and on the open upper deck (which is actually the bottom deck and the deck closest to the water).  I am required to wear a hard hat and report when going out and returning. The path is narrow and the ship lisps side to side and front to back which makes balancing testy.  I must remain diligent for the entire walk.  The first time I walked it, I slipped and cut my arm which didn’t set well with the captain as they are NOT in the business of passengers and an accident could really mess his life up.  BUT on the other hand, it is safer for them to let me continue this program rather than put up with grouchy me when not working out. :) There is a gym but it is “big boy” stuff although it has a stationary bike useful on rainy days---boring.   The pool is about 8 feet long by 6 feet wide. (Why bother?) It is irrelevant since it is drained and “closed for the winter.”  This is hilarious: we have been near the equator most of the trip and it is hot outside. 

Funny story: The rooms have a trash can divided into 3 parts:  Food waste, bottles/plastic and metal.  The guy comes in and throws them all into one plastic bag.

It is really easy to sleep; the swaying of the ship is soothing.  We have had very pleasant calm sailing so far.  It is supposed to change when we enter a storm somewhere near New Zealand.  My sleep patterns are inconsistent but what the heck, there is no reason to worry about missing anything cuz there ain’t noth’n going on!  I have never slept this much EVER. Never read so many books, watched so many movies, or listened to so many prerecorded NPR programs in such a short time.

           

The first few days there were lots of ships and some flying fish.  (Just like “The Life of Pi”.)   There was shipping activity on our way to the Panama Canal and a lot more when reaching it.  Since then, we have seen only 1 ship in 3 weeks. The ocean goes on and on and on and on. I keep hoping to see a pod of whales.  I know how Ahab felt.

Going through the Panama Canal was awesome!  Ever since hearing about it, it has been a dream to witness this.  You know … one of the 1,000 things before I die.   What a huge construction project AND over 100 years old!  The whole process of traveling through it was interesting from beginning to the end.  The new canal is in the process of being built and there is a plethora of activity, easily seen from the top of our ship.

Harbor pilot entering ship in Panama

 Before entering the canal, the ship pilot relinquishes ship control to a special pilot who guides it through – probably the fact that there is only a clearance of a foot or so on each side of the ship and the side of the lock makes it a “specialized” job.  (Really, having a special pilot is common practice when entering all ports.)

This is how the pilots board the ship - he is in a speed boat with a driver.  They run their boat next to the freighter (both are moving).  The pilot grabs a rope ladder that is dangling from the freighter and climbs up the side of the ship to a metal ladder that gets him into the ship. Yes, both the boat and the ship continue moving.  After the pilot starts climbing, the speed boat drops back in case the pilot falls and needs a rescue.   What a dangerous job!  Yes, I would love to do it (once)!  After giving the control back to the pilot, he rode to our next stop.  He was a very interesting, fun character and brought some life to the trip.

It took 10.5 hours to go through the canal.   

Entering the Canal

Our captain never let us off the ship in Columbia, but immigration came on board.  The official put a “souvenir stamp” on my passport, good enough.  We were told we could get off the ship in Balboa, Panama during the 21 hours we were there unloading and loading  containers, but the captain would not let us.  NOT happy about that.  Maybe you are getting the idea the captain is not the friendliest guy!   But, he is the ultimate decision maker.  No immigration officer came on board so no stamp on the passport.  Anyway stamp or not, I was there!!!

I am very excited.  Tomorrow, in Auckland, two horses will be loaded for the trip to Sydney.  This will be fun not only watching them being loaded and unloaded but also watching how they are cared for.  It will be fun meeting the groom as he will be joining us for meals.  He/she should add some vitality to the trip.  My hope is the horses will be put on top of the containers in front of my window.  The Aussie is complaining about their noises and smells: no wonder he isn’t married, doesn’t have a girlfriend or male friends.

Another great piece of news is that we get off the ship in Auckland during a 16 hour unload/load operation.  My land legs should still work.  Hopefully there will be lots of emails to answer.  There is a Seaman’s club that may be available for us to use. Do you think I can get a manicure? :)  After Auckland, there will be 2 more days of sailing, and then I will get off in Sydney.

I have been thinking about what to do after camping.  Having traveled the Australian North/South train several times, I may entertain the train that goes from East to West, maybe just to Kalgoorlie. I would also like to see the town where the people live underground.  I haven’t decided if I will go to Tasmania, or camping in the Blue Mountains, or do some costal things.  I may just be travel worn or out of money, and return to the USA.  Australia is expensive. 

You are all caught up now.    Hopefully you have not been bored.